LIFE IN KALBARRI

Where has the year gone already!

In November I undertook my Senior First Aid Certificate as mine had expired some years ago. From this, I discovered that here in W.A. the Ambulance service in regional areas is staffed and run only by Volunteers. They have to raise funds to buy their own ambulances, uniforms, buildings and general running. There is no state or Federal funding. Kalbarri was short of volunteers so I asked whether they could use me for the short time that I am resident in Kalbarri. Well they wanted me, so I am spending a number of hours there, fast tracking my training in First Aid and as an Ambulance Driver. I love it and they are all such a great group of people. They are even trying to get us to stay longer so they can keep me!

One of the guys who was on my First Aid course runs the boat called “Reef Walker”. Rob runs fishing charters and cruises but he also has cray fish traps. He invited us out to go with him early one morning to check the traps for crays. As we went out of the river mouth at 6.15am there was a great pod of dolphins playing in the waves. We watched them for a while before checking the traps. Rob has a winch on board to pull the traps in, they are checked and any crayfish in them are measured to ensure they meet the regulation length before being kept, the traps re-baited and then put back. A lovely morning spent out on the water.

One day we heard that there was a whale stranded at the river mouth. We drove down and a poor baby whale had been separated from her mum and washed into the mouth of the river and onto the rocks. SES and VMA tried to save her but the baby died. Sad to see.

Christmas was very quiet for us here in Kalbarri. There were a few in the Anchorage Caravan Park but mainly family groups who kept to themselves. We had duck with Orange sauce for Christmas dinner along with a bottle of bubbles. It was a hot day, around 35 degrees so we spent the afternoon watching old movies on TV. Along came Boxing Day and in flocked the hoards of people. The park was full of tents and camper trailers and lots of kids. No hope of getting into the pool for a swim as it was wall to wall kids.

We haven’t even done a lot of fishing as the winds have been very strong and gusty which made even sitting on a beach uncomfortable – that is unless you wanted to feel that you have been sand blasted.

New Year’s Eve was spent having a Barbeque up at the St John Ambulance centre as I was on call. Quite a number of the volunteers attended so it made a nice social night. We left at 12.30am after watching the Sydney fireworks on TV. I was off call for the night. Two of the others got a call out at 3am in the morning to a car accident, the driver being well over the limit.

We did take a drive down to Port Gregory about 60kms south of Kalbarri. To get there you drive south from Kalbarri and passed the Pink Lake. This lake is pink! It contains beta-carotene and it is mined here and used for many purposes. Well, we discovered what makes the Pink Lake pink! It is an algae that produces carotenoids. For example, beta carotene is a carotenoid that makes carrots orange. This algae contains a mix of carotenoids of different colours and the mix of them makes the water and salt turn pink! Amazing stuff eh? They extract the algae from the water and sell it to the food industry as a food colourant. Coincidentally, they also extract garnet from the ancient beach sand in the same location and the garnet is also pink in colour. This is the only alluvial deposit in the world but although the grains are of gem quality they are too small to cut so they are used as abrasives because they are really tough little guys. Some days it is pinker than others depending on the temperature of the day.

Port Gregory is only a very small place but very pretty with the bay looking very similar to Coral Bay. Clear crystalline water with the reef being just off shore. We tried fishing from the jetty but the fish were so small you couldn’t even feel them taking the bait! We then drove out of town and down a 4WD track to where the Hutt River enters the ocean. Beautifully isolated wind swept beach. Very soft sand and we ended up being bogged! Tide was coming in and we could not get out! Walter had to walk a couple of km’s back up the road to a property where they were good enough to bring their 4WD down and pull us out. Enjoyed the rest of the afternoon but still no fish!

One of the lovely experiences we have had just last week was a flight out to the Abrolhos Islands. These islands lie about 53 nautical miles west of Kalbarri. It was a ½ hour flight from Kalbarri with Nathan the pilot.
There are 122 islands approximately 50nm off the coast of Geraldton, Western Australia. These lay in 3 distinct groups. Southern (Pelseart) Easter (Rat) & Wallabi (including North) Our visit was to the North Wallabi group.

22 islands are inhabited 14 weeks of the year and are used for crayfishing & aquaculture.

It is the Worlds most Southern Coral Atoll and the corals are some of the best I have ever seen in Australia. All colours of blue, lilac and deep purple and in all forms!

Webbie Hayes’s fort on West Wallabi Island (Batavia 1629) is said to be the oldest European building in Australia.

The Dutch founded the Houtman Abrolhos in early 1600’s. Low lying islands were a danger to their journey and are named after Frederick Houtman and Abrolhos meaning “Look Out, Beware”

There are 2 most famous shipwrecks at the Abrolhos. Zeewijck (1727) & Batavia (1629)

The Batavia Mutiny is said to be the worlds worst betrayal of shipwreck, mutiny and torture. The shipwreck you can see the footprint it has left from the air. Many men, women & children were murdered on Beacon Island by blood thirsty Mutineers who were later caught. Several mutineers were tortured & hung on Long Island, 2 dropped off on the Australia’s mainland & others taken back to Batavia where they were dealt a horrific death.

Tropical Corals & Marine life surround these nutrient rich waters. We walked from the airstrip to Turtle Bay were we snorkelled and had morning tea. I even had the greatest pleasure of swimming with a very large sea lion! He was really curious and swam right up to me and around me! What an experience! The water is clear turquoise and abundant with fish and marine life!

Guano Mining (phosphate, bird droppings) was mined in the late 1800’s to early 1900’s leaving the islands limestone rocks up turned.
One of the worlds largest marine bird breeding sanctuary with many different species of birds.

None of us (5 passengers) wanted to leave! However the pilot, Nathan, had two more flights around Kalbarri and the cliffs booked for the afternoon so we had to leave. We have asked to come again if there are any vacant places at the end of February!

Australia Day was a great day here! It meant an early start for us both as we were helping St John Ambulance set up there stall for the Market Day at 6 am. The markets began at 8 am and was the largest market Kalbarri had ever had with around 50 stalls all set up around the foreshore. St John ran raffles and also ran the First Aid post. In the afternoon we had a combined exercise exibihition with the VMA (Volunteer Marine Assoc), the SES, Police and St John Ambulance. A boat was set alight and the victims had to be rescued from the boat and the water, bought ashore and transported by the Police Quad bikes to us and we carted them all away with lights and sirens!

Then, when it grew dark a fabulous fireworks display set up on the other side of the river. For a small town they really know how to put on a great display.

In two weeks I am flying from Geraldton to Perth, then Perth to Sydney to spend a week with my Mum. I am really looking forward to catching up with her and other members of my family as it has been 2 years since I have seen them! This is a big country so it makes getting home hard. Walter is staying at Kalbarri keeping the home fires burning!

We trust you all had a safe and Happy Christmas and that you haven’t broken too many of your New Year resolutions at this point in time.

We leave here after Easter in late April and will wind our way back to Ningaloo Reef to start with then head to Karajini National Park.

Until next time,

Cheers The Happy Travellers

Rob & Walter

2 MONTHS IN KALBARRI

It has now been two months since we took up residence in Kalbarri. It is such a pretty place, 500kms north of Perth where the Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean.

We have a bit of a routine now but we have time to explore the area.

We went out on a fishing charter before the season finished, leaving at 6 am and the boat, called “The Specialist”, headed out the river mouth and travelled about 1 ½ hours north beside the Zuytdorp cliffs. The wind blew up so it got quite choppy with many of the fishermen being sea sick. Neither of us caught very much but some on board caught Dhu fish, pink snapper and coral trout, with the catch being shared when we returned to Kalbarri.

We have taken some drives out along the cliffs and out into the National Park to view the wild flowers. They have been truly spectacular and when you think they must be nearly finished another variety appears. At present the beautiful pink feather flowers are coming out and you look across acres of hot pink!

The cliffs on the south side have spectacular views and you can often see dolphins surfing the waves. We have not had the chance to use our beach rods as it has been quite windy. We were told when we were in Ceduna SA that W.A. stood for “Windy Always”! We haven’t had much luck yet on the fishing but we keep trying had hope.

The school holidays in October meant that the caravan park was very busy……but its good in lots of ways as we keep meeting such great people and shared many interesting “Happy Hours”. Now it is very quiet in the park as the residents from southern WA who went north for the winter have now returned home and the kids are all back at school. But this peace will be short lived as there won’t be a blade of grass not camped on when the Christmas School holidays begin!

We have had a number of visitors, Henry and Zenny stayed for a fortnight and Zenny & I went fishing, Mike & Fran called in and stayed two nights on their way back to South Australia after working in Coral Bay and Karen & Phred who stayed out at Wagoe came and spent a couple of hours with us catching up on the news and friends movements.

Melbourne Cup day here in Kalbarri was looked forward to as we were told well before we arrived that it had a great reputation. It is held at the Kalbarri hotel and believe you me it did not disappoint! Neither of us have seen food like it, and so much of it! Crayfish, prawns, oysters, mussels, salads, roast, Asian rices, deserts and it went on! It was a smorgasbord and nothing including the crayfish got a chance to run out! They just kept topping them up. As far as the horses were concerned we both bombed out. We went with another couple who were camped next to us in their 5th wheeler.

It’s hard to believe that another year has disappeared so quickly! Only 5 weeks to Christmas. When we look we have covered quite a bit of Oz but so much still to see! We will be here in Kalbarri until after Easter 2010 and then our plan is to go north again back towards Ningaloo Reef which captivated us both. From there, the plan is to go out to Karajini National Park, Mill Stream and Chichester and then to Port Hedland and Karratha. But all our plans are always susceptible to change!

We want to wish all of you a Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year from our current home in lovely Kalbarri Western Australia.

NINGALOO REEF BACK TO KALBARRI

Time again has flown! We spent a lovely 28 days on Mesa Camp in the Cape Range National Park, right on Ningaloo Reef.

Whilst there we snorkelled the amazing reef many times, often spotting marine creatures we had never seen before including an Undulate Moray eel. It had the most amazing gold pattern over its brown body – very spectacular. The reef in all areas was so colourful, corals and reef fishes abounded. We fished a couple of times in different areas with the best fish being a Golden Trevally. We also took the Yardie Creek boat cruise of about an hour in duration. This creek is perennial fresh water but only flows out into the ocean every couple of years as it is stopped by a sandbar. The bar had washed away whilst we were there so were treated to this great sight. The cruise goes up through a beautiful gorge of red cliffs and you get to see the rare Black Footed Rock wallabies in their caves along the gorge. There were also lots of rare plants and trees only found in the Cape Range National Park.

It was also a great place for me to add to my Scuba diving experiences! So we booked a trip to the outer reef, me to dive and Walter to snorkel. It was a full day trip leaving from the boat ramp at Tandabiddi, just outside the National Park and not that far from our camp site. Good sized boat with about 12 other people on it to also enjoy the day. Humpback whales were prevalent coming so close to the boat. Even a Mum and a baby calf! The diving was OK but it was a big swell that kicked up a lot of sand! Sometimes it was like diving in a snow storm! The really cool thing was that you could hear the whales calling to each other underwater! Amazing experience!!

Whilst there (on Ningaloo) I was also able to undertake and Underwater Photography course. It has been something I have wanted to do for a long time. It was fantastic and my instructor was an amazing photographer, I learnt so much.

We went into Exmouth (about 50kms from Mesa Camp) for shopping, laundry and water about once a week. On one trip we drove further south to drive up into the Charles Knife Canyon. Another spectacular drive with the road along the top of this stunning gorge with views right out over Exmouth and the Gulf. On the way home we also drove into the Shothole Canyon which was completely different, the road winding its way along the bottom of the gorge. You felt very small as the track was narrow and the cliffs towering on either side of us, red and rugged.

Many of our days were spent just soaking up the sun with a good book. Close to Mesa there was also a bore where we could get water suitable for washing (not drinking or cooking). It also was the hang out for a couple of emu families who used to hang around waiting for you to turn on the tap so they too could get a drink. Made great photo opportunities! Whilst we were here we also had received a message from Kalbarri that they now needed us to start work earlier than initially planned so we now were going to have to be there by the 17th September.

Our time seemed to go so very quickly, the time to leave was upon us so we headed south about 150kms to a place known as Nine Mile. It is just north of Coral Bay lying on the beach, overlooking the amazing reef with its turquoise and clear water, just and still on Ningaloo Reef. A number of our friends were already there, some like Klaus and Carmen having been there for about 2 months. It was about 12 kms off the highway down a sand track that we took slowly with the van on behind. When we arrived we also found Zenny and Henry and Kaz and Phred, who we had also camped at Old Onslow with. We found a nice camp site overlooking the bay and set up camp. We planned to stay about 3 weeks before heading to Kalbarri for work.





Whilst we were here, we had a phone call from two lovely friends we met whilst working in Arkaroola, M ike & Fran. They had secured work at the caravan park in Coral Bay. It was so lovely to catch up with them. We had some lovely Bar-B-ques and shared a glass or two of red wine!

Happy hour(s) were a great part of every day and we met new friends in Lena and Arthur, Noddy and Pete and Rex and Cheryl. Whilst we were there, Walter celebrated his 68th birthday. A curry night was decided upon and Arthur offered to cook him a birthday cake. It turned out to be a great party, with fabulous food, balloons and streamers. It also turned out to be the very first birthday party that Walter had ever had!

Our days varied from reading to fishing. Phred needed a “deckie” so I went out with him onto the reef when the winds allowed. I caught my first of many squid here and didn’t escape from being squirted all over with black ink! It is hilarious and made even better by going back with a good catch. Also caught lots of “Charlie Court” whose proper name is Rock Cod. Zenny and Carmen took me with them on low tide one day where we wandered over the exposed reef looking for octopus. They use this for bait. Zenny has the most incredible eyes for finding these elusive creatures and it’s not easy getting them out of their holes either!

Water and laundry required a trip into Coral Bay. Water had to be purchased at 10cents per litre. Groceries though were NOT bought in Coral Bay. The prices were so astronomical it was cheaper for a trip of 150kms back to Exmouth. Apples for instance were $1.00 each and Onions 80 cents each!

The three weeks again disappeared quickly into the realms of time and we had to leave to drive the 400kms south to Kalbarri. We stopped one night at Carnarvon, taking advantage of the markets to stock up on great fruit and vegies before driving to Galena Bridge – a roadside stop beside the Murchison river. We spent 2 nights here surrounded in wild flowers. The flowers started well before here though and we had many stops taking umpteen photos! Around Galena, it was a picture of white and yellow predominately although we also found blue and red.

After leaving Galena we turned off the highway and drove in towards Kalbarri through the National Park. It is only 80 kms but it took us a long time with many stops as we kept finding more and more amazing flowers!

We are now resident in Kalbarri for the next 6 months working in the Anchorage Caravan Park. We have the same site as we had when we travelled through here in May. Jack and Julie who found us the work were still here and we worked with them for a week for the change over before they left to resume after nine months, their travels. The work is easy, Walter mowing the grass and watering after vans move off their sites, putting garbage bins out and general maintenance. I am cleaning cabins and a Park Home. The cabins are basic but OK and only take about ½ hour to clean. The Park Home requires a bit more as it has its own ensuites and is serviced with linen. We are both usually finished by lunch time then free to do our own thing. It’s rather nice to have our feet in one spot for a time, particularly such a pretty spot as Kalbarri. I will also probably be taught the booking system and office work to enable me to fill in at the front office when required.

So for the next couple of months the web site may stay the same unless we have other news to impart!

Cheers The Happy Travellers, Rob & Walter

GERALDTON TO NINGALOO REEF


Again time has flown! We left Geraldton and travelled a whole 23kms to Coronation Beach where we camped for 3 days. It isn’t a free camping area but only charges $10.00 per night. No power but pit toilets and a dump point. Weather was good but the fishing wasn’t. Too much weed being blown into the beach. What was great though was that the Crayfish boat anchored everyday to take its catch into Geraldton and so we were buying alive and still kicking Crayfish for $10 each. Very yummy!

After 3 days we travelled up to Northampton just for one night. Nice little town and we stayed in the caravan park which enabled us to get our washing done and fill the tanks with water. The road from there, towards Kalbarri passed the Pink Lake, quite an incredible sight. Hard to get a good photo though as there really wasn’t any close viewing points. We had planned to stay at Lucky Bay (a free camp) but when we saw it we were not impressed so went onto Kalbarri. No free camps around Kalbarri so we stayed in the Anchorage Caravan Park. Kalbarri is a very pretty place on where the Murchison River enters the ocean. Kalbarri National Park is also only 28kms form the town. In actual fact, Kalbarri sits in the middle of the National Park. The caravan park we stayed in overlooked the river, very pretty and we had some really lovely sunsets whilst there too. It is an easy place to spend time in. The coastal scenery is spectacular, and there are lots of walks around the area. We undertook a number of those including a Canoeing trip out to the gorges in the National Park. This tour included walks also to Natures Window and what is known as Z Bend. A figure Z cut into the landscape by water flowing through over millions of years, maybe not the Grand Canyon but pretty spectacular all the same.

We also drove out to the Hutt River Province and had an audience with Prince Leonard. He is well in his 80's now but definitely has all his marbles. He hasn't had to pay tax to the Aussie Govt since 1970! It was really interesting going through his Government buildings, having to get our Visa and Passport and sighting his own currency!

From Kalbarri we headed north, stopping firstly only 100kms away at a free camp beside the Murchison River, called Galena Bridge. Toilets, picnic tables and Dump Point. Then it was further north via the Overlander Roadhouse where we turned left and went to Hamelin Pool. This is where the Stomatolites are. One of the earliest life forms on the planet. It also was an early telegraph station. After 2 nights we headed towards Denham but stopping at Whalebone Beach for a free camp (1 night stay only allowed). Such a pretty spot before heading into Denham for 3 nights. From here (leaving the van in the Caravan Park, we went up to Monkey Mia for the day to feed the dolphins. Lovely spot and really interesting but they now chare $6.60 per person for the pleasure of going into it. It is part of the NP but even though we have an Annual pass for WA, this is not covered! Coming back we drove a short way into the Francis Peron NP to visit the old homestead where we read it had an artesian pool. We had taken lunch so decided as we had our swimmers this would be a great spot to stop for a while!

We had had contact with friends that we had crossed the Nullabor with and they planned to meet us and join up again. The original plan was to go and stay at Tamala Station but when we all found that the station had put up their costs to $13.30 per person per night (unpowered, unwatered and no fires) Lorraine did some researching and found another station property known as Carrarang Station, also on the shores of Shark Bay that offered camping. The costs here were only $5.00 per person per day and fires were allowed. It was another 40kms further along than Tamala but it was great. We (4 vans) actually could pitch camp right on the beach! We stayed for 2 weeks and it was great. A long way to go though to stock up for groceries if you needed too! It was 167kms to Denham (one way). The only other drawback was that the fish were not biting. Two of the vans have boats and none of us could catch a feed. We played plenty of cards, and had lots of great camp oven meals.

After Carrarang Station, we headed toward Carnarvon or a little bit south of there, to Bush Bay. Another free camp site with dump point but no other facilities. Only 30 kms to Carnarvon so it was easy enough to get good water and food supplies from there. The fruit and vegie markets there are fabulous. Garry & Lorraine also used to work for Sunland Caravans and they earn some money as they travel effecting caravan repairs. After our 2 week stint at Carrarang (longest we have ever stayed Off road in one period) we found that just 1 solar panel was not enough so with Gary's contacts, had another panel ordered to be picked up in Carnarvon and Gary then put it in place. Makes it so much better having full power charged up through the inverter each day. Whilst we were there Walter & I had an email from 2 couples we had travelled to Cape York with in 2006. Barb & Tony and Vic and Norma. It turned out they were now both travelling together and were at Denham. So when we told them where we were, they advised us they were coming our way, so we met up with them at the markets in Carnarvon and the following day all came out to Bush Bay for a BBQ.

Then we headed further north, looking for that warm weather, spent one night at an overnight rest stop called Lynton creek. Lovely spot beside a dry creek bed, toilets and lovely camp fire areas before heading to Old Onslow. Old Onslow is the original site of Onslow before the river silted up and it was relocated to its current position. A number of the couples had been there before and said they planned to stay for a month as it is so pretty and the fishing is also pretty good. The camp sites are along the banks of the Ashburton River. It is fresh water where we are but about 2 kms further down there is a barrage across the river and it is salt water and the estuary going out to the sea from there. The guys have about 7 kms to the boat ramp. The fishing hasn't been too bad. They have caught some giant salmon and good mud crabs from the boats and I have caught thread-fin salmon, good sized bream, flathead, 3 really good sized Jew fish and catfish form the banks of the estuary. We have about 40kms to travel into Onslow where we get fresh supplies of drinking water and food. Two of the guys have "F" trucks and have pumps on them, so they have submersible pumps in the river, pumping up river water for showers and washing up. It is a bit brackish but fine for this. We stayed here 4 weeks, so peaceful and the bird life truly plentiful. Black swans cruised the river, alongside Pelicans and ducks. A Whistling kite family had its nest and a chick right across the river from us. Rainbow Bee eaters, Sacred King fishers, White plumed honey eaters, ospreys and sea eagles were seen regularly along with herons.

I celebrated my 60th birthday there. Camp cooked roast with vegies and Birthday cake and champagne!

We then went our separate ways, 3 couples going further north, one staying a bit longer and we headed south and west to Exmouth and Ningaloo Reef.

Our first sight of the reef was unbelievable! The water is so turquoise it is hard to believe it is real! We stayed 2 nights in Yardie Creek Caravan park as the National Park camp sites were totally full. To get in, we had to rise at 4.15am and line up at the Ranger Station to see what sites were available. We were second in line and got into Mesa Camp. Prices aren’t bad. With our concession card it only costs $4.50 per person per night! We had driven through the park the day before and had a look at each camping area to see what suited us. Mesa has large open sites where we could get plenty of sun for the solar panel. Many of the others were small and camped on top of each other. We plan to stay for the 28 days which is the longest stay you can have here. It makes it a very fair system. We have had plenty of wind the last 2 days but hope it will improve by Tuesday. We are going into Exmouth (about 50kms) to shop tomorrow and re-stock the grocery supplies. Then Tuesday we want to explore the many snorkelling areas, Lakeside, Turquoise Bay and the Oyster Stacks. No one seem to be catching fish at present, they say that a cold current came through about the middle of June which the experts say is the reason. We hope it changes whilst we are here!

The rain that fell in early July has contributed to many wild flowers now coming out. Western Australia is known for its wild flowers and here in Ningaloo there are already plenty to be found including the beautiful Sturts Desert Pea. However, the pea found here in the park is totally endemic to this area. It has an all red centre instead of the better known black centre. There are also lovely purple daisies, prostrate wattle, and a deep red pea flower. Most I have no idea of what they are!

Since writing this we have snorkelled Lakeside, Turquoise Bay and The Oyster Stacks. Lakeside is lovely, beautiful corals and lots of fish just like an aquarium! Even anemones with "Nemo's" swimming around. Turquoise Bay was also interesting but water a bit cloudy on the day we were there. The Oyster Stacks are something very special. Spectacular coral and so many and varied fish of all colours shapes and sizes! Water was crystal clear too. We will definitely be going back there again!

Tomorrow we will head into Exmouth to possibly book a dive trip for me and a snorkelling one for Walter, stock back up on drinking water and take a drive out to one of the other lookouts in the Cape Range that overlooks the reef.

We still have the Yardie Creek boat cruise to do, walk the Manu Manu Gorge and the Yardie Creek gorge and hunt for the elusive Black-footed Rock Wallabies! Plus all that fishing and snorkelling to keep doing! Time is just flying!

Until next time,

Cheers to you all for the Happy Travellers - Rob & Walter