LIFE IN KALBARRI

Where has the year gone already!

In November I undertook my Senior First Aid Certificate as mine had expired some years ago. From this, I discovered that here in W.A. the Ambulance service in regional areas is staffed and run only by Volunteers. They have to raise funds to buy their own ambulances, uniforms, buildings and general running. There is no state or Federal funding. Kalbarri was short of volunteers so I asked whether they could use me for the short time that I am resident in Kalbarri. Well they wanted me, so I am spending a number of hours there, fast tracking my training in First Aid and as an Ambulance Driver. I love it and they are all such a great group of people. They are even trying to get us to stay longer so they can keep me!

One of the guys who was on my First Aid course runs the boat called “Reef Walker”. Rob runs fishing charters and cruises but he also has cray fish traps. He invited us out to go with him early one morning to check the traps for crays. As we went out of the river mouth at 6.15am there was a great pod of dolphins playing in the waves. We watched them for a while before checking the traps. Rob has a winch on board to pull the traps in, they are checked and any crayfish in them are measured to ensure they meet the regulation length before being kept, the traps re-baited and then put back. A lovely morning spent out on the water.

One day we heard that there was a whale stranded at the river mouth. We drove down and a poor baby whale had been separated from her mum and washed into the mouth of the river and onto the rocks. SES and VMA tried to save her but the baby died. Sad to see.

Christmas was very quiet for us here in Kalbarri. There were a few in the Anchorage Caravan Park but mainly family groups who kept to themselves. We had duck with Orange sauce for Christmas dinner along with a bottle of bubbles. It was a hot day, around 35 degrees so we spent the afternoon watching old movies on TV. Along came Boxing Day and in flocked the hoards of people. The park was full of tents and camper trailers and lots of kids. No hope of getting into the pool for a swim as it was wall to wall kids.

We haven’t even done a lot of fishing as the winds have been very strong and gusty which made even sitting on a beach uncomfortable – that is unless you wanted to feel that you have been sand blasted.

New Year’s Eve was spent having a Barbeque up at the St John Ambulance centre as I was on call. Quite a number of the volunteers attended so it made a nice social night. We left at 12.30am after watching the Sydney fireworks on TV. I was off call for the night. Two of the others got a call out at 3am in the morning to a car accident, the driver being well over the limit.

We did take a drive down to Port Gregory about 60kms south of Kalbarri. To get there you drive south from Kalbarri and passed the Pink Lake. This lake is pink! It contains beta-carotene and it is mined here and used for many purposes. Well, we discovered what makes the Pink Lake pink! It is an algae that produces carotenoids. For example, beta carotene is a carotenoid that makes carrots orange. This algae contains a mix of carotenoids of different colours and the mix of them makes the water and salt turn pink! Amazing stuff eh? They extract the algae from the water and sell it to the food industry as a food colourant. Coincidentally, they also extract garnet from the ancient beach sand in the same location and the garnet is also pink in colour. This is the only alluvial deposit in the world but although the grains are of gem quality they are too small to cut so they are used as abrasives because they are really tough little guys. Some days it is pinker than others depending on the temperature of the day.

Port Gregory is only a very small place but very pretty with the bay looking very similar to Coral Bay. Clear crystalline water with the reef being just off shore. We tried fishing from the jetty but the fish were so small you couldn’t even feel them taking the bait! We then drove out of town and down a 4WD track to where the Hutt River enters the ocean. Beautifully isolated wind swept beach. Very soft sand and we ended up being bogged! Tide was coming in and we could not get out! Walter had to walk a couple of km’s back up the road to a property where they were good enough to bring their 4WD down and pull us out. Enjoyed the rest of the afternoon but still no fish!

One of the lovely experiences we have had just last week was a flight out to the Abrolhos Islands. These islands lie about 53 nautical miles west of Kalbarri. It was a ½ hour flight from Kalbarri with Nathan the pilot.
There are 122 islands approximately 50nm off the coast of Geraldton, Western Australia. These lay in 3 distinct groups. Southern (Pelseart) Easter (Rat) & Wallabi (including North) Our visit was to the North Wallabi group.

22 islands are inhabited 14 weeks of the year and are used for crayfishing & aquaculture.

It is the Worlds most Southern Coral Atoll and the corals are some of the best I have ever seen in Australia. All colours of blue, lilac and deep purple and in all forms!

Webbie Hayes’s fort on West Wallabi Island (Batavia 1629) is said to be the oldest European building in Australia.

The Dutch founded the Houtman Abrolhos in early 1600’s. Low lying islands were a danger to their journey and are named after Frederick Houtman and Abrolhos meaning “Look Out, Beware”

There are 2 most famous shipwrecks at the Abrolhos. Zeewijck (1727) & Batavia (1629)

The Batavia Mutiny is said to be the worlds worst betrayal of shipwreck, mutiny and torture. The shipwreck you can see the footprint it has left from the air. Many men, women & children were murdered on Beacon Island by blood thirsty Mutineers who were later caught. Several mutineers were tortured & hung on Long Island, 2 dropped off on the Australia’s mainland & others taken back to Batavia where they were dealt a horrific death.

Tropical Corals & Marine life surround these nutrient rich waters. We walked from the airstrip to Turtle Bay were we snorkelled and had morning tea. I even had the greatest pleasure of swimming with a very large sea lion! He was really curious and swam right up to me and around me! What an experience! The water is clear turquoise and abundant with fish and marine life!

Guano Mining (phosphate, bird droppings) was mined in the late 1800’s to early 1900’s leaving the islands limestone rocks up turned.
One of the worlds largest marine bird breeding sanctuary with many different species of birds.

None of us (5 passengers) wanted to leave! However the pilot, Nathan, had two more flights around Kalbarri and the cliffs booked for the afternoon so we had to leave. We have asked to come again if there are any vacant places at the end of February!

Australia Day was a great day here! It meant an early start for us both as we were helping St John Ambulance set up there stall for the Market Day at 6 am. The markets began at 8 am and was the largest market Kalbarri had ever had with around 50 stalls all set up around the foreshore. St John ran raffles and also ran the First Aid post. In the afternoon we had a combined exercise exibihition with the VMA (Volunteer Marine Assoc), the SES, Police and St John Ambulance. A boat was set alight and the victims had to be rescued from the boat and the water, bought ashore and transported by the Police Quad bikes to us and we carted them all away with lights and sirens!

Then, when it grew dark a fabulous fireworks display set up on the other side of the river. For a small town they really know how to put on a great display.

In two weeks I am flying from Geraldton to Perth, then Perth to Sydney to spend a week with my Mum. I am really looking forward to catching up with her and other members of my family as it has been 2 years since I have seen them! This is a big country so it makes getting home hard. Walter is staying at Kalbarri keeping the home fires burning!

We trust you all had a safe and Happy Christmas and that you haven’t broken too many of your New Year resolutions at this point in time.

We leave here after Easter in late April and will wind our way back to Ningaloo Reef to start with then head to Karajini National Park.

Until next time,

Cheers The Happy Travellers

Rob & Walter