GERALDTON TO NINGALOO REEF


Again time has flown! We left Geraldton and travelled a whole 23kms to Coronation Beach where we camped for 3 days. It isn’t a free camping area but only charges $10.00 per night. No power but pit toilets and a dump point. Weather was good but the fishing wasn’t. Too much weed being blown into the beach. What was great though was that the Crayfish boat anchored everyday to take its catch into Geraldton and so we were buying alive and still kicking Crayfish for $10 each. Very yummy!

After 3 days we travelled up to Northampton just for one night. Nice little town and we stayed in the caravan park which enabled us to get our washing done and fill the tanks with water. The road from there, towards Kalbarri passed the Pink Lake, quite an incredible sight. Hard to get a good photo though as there really wasn’t any close viewing points. We had planned to stay at Lucky Bay (a free camp) but when we saw it we were not impressed so went onto Kalbarri. No free camps around Kalbarri so we stayed in the Anchorage Caravan Park. Kalbarri is a very pretty place on where the Murchison River enters the ocean. Kalbarri National Park is also only 28kms form the town. In actual fact, Kalbarri sits in the middle of the National Park. The caravan park we stayed in overlooked the river, very pretty and we had some really lovely sunsets whilst there too. It is an easy place to spend time in. The coastal scenery is spectacular, and there are lots of walks around the area. We undertook a number of those including a Canoeing trip out to the gorges in the National Park. This tour included walks also to Natures Window and what is known as Z Bend. A figure Z cut into the landscape by water flowing through over millions of years, maybe not the Grand Canyon but pretty spectacular all the same.

We also drove out to the Hutt River Province and had an audience with Prince Leonard. He is well in his 80's now but definitely has all his marbles. He hasn't had to pay tax to the Aussie Govt since 1970! It was really interesting going through his Government buildings, having to get our Visa and Passport and sighting his own currency!

From Kalbarri we headed north, stopping firstly only 100kms away at a free camp beside the Murchison River, called Galena Bridge. Toilets, picnic tables and Dump Point. Then it was further north via the Overlander Roadhouse where we turned left and went to Hamelin Pool. This is where the Stomatolites are. One of the earliest life forms on the planet. It also was an early telegraph station. After 2 nights we headed towards Denham but stopping at Whalebone Beach for a free camp (1 night stay only allowed). Such a pretty spot before heading into Denham for 3 nights. From here (leaving the van in the Caravan Park, we went up to Monkey Mia for the day to feed the dolphins. Lovely spot and really interesting but they now chare $6.60 per person for the pleasure of going into it. It is part of the NP but even though we have an Annual pass for WA, this is not covered! Coming back we drove a short way into the Francis Peron NP to visit the old homestead where we read it had an artesian pool. We had taken lunch so decided as we had our swimmers this would be a great spot to stop for a while!

We had had contact with friends that we had crossed the Nullabor with and they planned to meet us and join up again. The original plan was to go and stay at Tamala Station but when we all found that the station had put up their costs to $13.30 per person per night (unpowered, unwatered and no fires) Lorraine did some researching and found another station property known as Carrarang Station, also on the shores of Shark Bay that offered camping. The costs here were only $5.00 per person per day and fires were allowed. It was another 40kms further along than Tamala but it was great. We (4 vans) actually could pitch camp right on the beach! We stayed for 2 weeks and it was great. A long way to go though to stock up for groceries if you needed too! It was 167kms to Denham (one way). The only other drawback was that the fish were not biting. Two of the vans have boats and none of us could catch a feed. We played plenty of cards, and had lots of great camp oven meals.

After Carrarang Station, we headed toward Carnarvon or a little bit south of there, to Bush Bay. Another free camp site with dump point but no other facilities. Only 30 kms to Carnarvon so it was easy enough to get good water and food supplies from there. The fruit and vegie markets there are fabulous. Garry & Lorraine also used to work for Sunland Caravans and they earn some money as they travel effecting caravan repairs. After our 2 week stint at Carrarang (longest we have ever stayed Off road in one period) we found that just 1 solar panel was not enough so with Gary's contacts, had another panel ordered to be picked up in Carnarvon and Gary then put it in place. Makes it so much better having full power charged up through the inverter each day. Whilst we were there Walter & I had an email from 2 couples we had travelled to Cape York with in 2006. Barb & Tony and Vic and Norma. It turned out they were now both travelling together and were at Denham. So when we told them where we were, they advised us they were coming our way, so we met up with them at the markets in Carnarvon and the following day all came out to Bush Bay for a BBQ.

Then we headed further north, looking for that warm weather, spent one night at an overnight rest stop called Lynton creek. Lovely spot beside a dry creek bed, toilets and lovely camp fire areas before heading to Old Onslow. Old Onslow is the original site of Onslow before the river silted up and it was relocated to its current position. A number of the couples had been there before and said they planned to stay for a month as it is so pretty and the fishing is also pretty good. The camp sites are along the banks of the Ashburton River. It is fresh water where we are but about 2 kms further down there is a barrage across the river and it is salt water and the estuary going out to the sea from there. The guys have about 7 kms to the boat ramp. The fishing hasn't been too bad. They have caught some giant salmon and good mud crabs from the boats and I have caught thread-fin salmon, good sized bream, flathead, 3 really good sized Jew fish and catfish form the banks of the estuary. We have about 40kms to travel into Onslow where we get fresh supplies of drinking water and food. Two of the guys have "F" trucks and have pumps on them, so they have submersible pumps in the river, pumping up river water for showers and washing up. It is a bit brackish but fine for this. We stayed here 4 weeks, so peaceful and the bird life truly plentiful. Black swans cruised the river, alongside Pelicans and ducks. A Whistling kite family had its nest and a chick right across the river from us. Rainbow Bee eaters, Sacred King fishers, White plumed honey eaters, ospreys and sea eagles were seen regularly along with herons.

I celebrated my 60th birthday there. Camp cooked roast with vegies and Birthday cake and champagne!

We then went our separate ways, 3 couples going further north, one staying a bit longer and we headed south and west to Exmouth and Ningaloo Reef.

Our first sight of the reef was unbelievable! The water is so turquoise it is hard to believe it is real! We stayed 2 nights in Yardie Creek Caravan park as the National Park camp sites were totally full. To get in, we had to rise at 4.15am and line up at the Ranger Station to see what sites were available. We were second in line and got into Mesa Camp. Prices aren’t bad. With our concession card it only costs $4.50 per person per night! We had driven through the park the day before and had a look at each camping area to see what suited us. Mesa has large open sites where we could get plenty of sun for the solar panel. Many of the others were small and camped on top of each other. We plan to stay for the 28 days which is the longest stay you can have here. It makes it a very fair system. We have had plenty of wind the last 2 days but hope it will improve by Tuesday. We are going into Exmouth (about 50kms) to shop tomorrow and re-stock the grocery supplies. Then Tuesday we want to explore the many snorkelling areas, Lakeside, Turquoise Bay and the Oyster Stacks. No one seem to be catching fish at present, they say that a cold current came through about the middle of June which the experts say is the reason. We hope it changes whilst we are here!

The rain that fell in early July has contributed to many wild flowers now coming out. Western Australia is known for its wild flowers and here in Ningaloo there are already plenty to be found including the beautiful Sturts Desert Pea. However, the pea found here in the park is totally endemic to this area. It has an all red centre instead of the better known black centre. There are also lovely purple daisies, prostrate wattle, and a deep red pea flower. Most I have no idea of what they are!

Since writing this we have snorkelled Lakeside, Turquoise Bay and The Oyster Stacks. Lakeside is lovely, beautiful corals and lots of fish just like an aquarium! Even anemones with "Nemo's" swimming around. Turquoise Bay was also interesting but water a bit cloudy on the day we were there. The Oyster Stacks are something very special. Spectacular coral and so many and varied fish of all colours shapes and sizes! Water was crystal clear too. We will definitely be going back there again!

Tomorrow we will head into Exmouth to possibly book a dive trip for me and a snorkelling one for Walter, stock back up on drinking water and take a drive out to one of the other lookouts in the Cape Range that overlooks the reef.

We still have the Yardie Creek boat cruise to do, walk the Manu Manu Gorge and the Yardie Creek gorge and hunt for the elusive Black-footed Rock Wallabies! Plus all that fishing and snorkelling to keep doing! Time is just flying!

Until next time,

Cheers to you all for the Happy Travellers - Rob & Walter