NINGALOO REEF BACK TO KALBARRI

Time again has flown! We spent a lovely 28 days on Mesa Camp in the Cape Range National Park, right on Ningaloo Reef.

Whilst there we snorkelled the amazing reef many times, often spotting marine creatures we had never seen before including an Undulate Moray eel. It had the most amazing gold pattern over its brown body – very spectacular. The reef in all areas was so colourful, corals and reef fishes abounded. We fished a couple of times in different areas with the best fish being a Golden Trevally. We also took the Yardie Creek boat cruise of about an hour in duration. This creek is perennial fresh water but only flows out into the ocean every couple of years as it is stopped by a sandbar. The bar had washed away whilst we were there so were treated to this great sight. The cruise goes up through a beautiful gorge of red cliffs and you get to see the rare Black Footed Rock wallabies in their caves along the gorge. There were also lots of rare plants and trees only found in the Cape Range National Park.

It was also a great place for me to add to my Scuba diving experiences! So we booked a trip to the outer reef, me to dive and Walter to snorkel. It was a full day trip leaving from the boat ramp at Tandabiddi, just outside the National Park and not that far from our camp site. Good sized boat with about 12 other people on it to also enjoy the day. Humpback whales were prevalent coming so close to the boat. Even a Mum and a baby calf! The diving was OK but it was a big swell that kicked up a lot of sand! Sometimes it was like diving in a snow storm! The really cool thing was that you could hear the whales calling to each other underwater! Amazing experience!!

Whilst there (on Ningaloo) I was also able to undertake and Underwater Photography course. It has been something I have wanted to do for a long time. It was fantastic and my instructor was an amazing photographer, I learnt so much.

We went into Exmouth (about 50kms from Mesa Camp) for shopping, laundry and water about once a week. On one trip we drove further south to drive up into the Charles Knife Canyon. Another spectacular drive with the road along the top of this stunning gorge with views right out over Exmouth and the Gulf. On the way home we also drove into the Shothole Canyon which was completely different, the road winding its way along the bottom of the gorge. You felt very small as the track was narrow and the cliffs towering on either side of us, red and rugged.

Many of our days were spent just soaking up the sun with a good book. Close to Mesa there was also a bore where we could get water suitable for washing (not drinking or cooking). It also was the hang out for a couple of emu families who used to hang around waiting for you to turn on the tap so they too could get a drink. Made great photo opportunities! Whilst we were here we also had received a message from Kalbarri that they now needed us to start work earlier than initially planned so we now were going to have to be there by the 17th September.

Our time seemed to go so very quickly, the time to leave was upon us so we headed south about 150kms to a place known as Nine Mile. It is just north of Coral Bay lying on the beach, overlooking the amazing reef with its turquoise and clear water, just and still on Ningaloo Reef. A number of our friends were already there, some like Klaus and Carmen having been there for about 2 months. It was about 12 kms off the highway down a sand track that we took slowly with the van on behind. When we arrived we also found Zenny and Henry and Kaz and Phred, who we had also camped at Old Onslow with. We found a nice camp site overlooking the bay and set up camp. We planned to stay about 3 weeks before heading to Kalbarri for work.





Whilst we were here, we had a phone call from two lovely friends we met whilst working in Arkaroola, M ike & Fran. They had secured work at the caravan park in Coral Bay. It was so lovely to catch up with them. We had some lovely Bar-B-ques and shared a glass or two of red wine!

Happy hour(s) were a great part of every day and we met new friends in Lena and Arthur, Noddy and Pete and Rex and Cheryl. Whilst we were there, Walter celebrated his 68th birthday. A curry night was decided upon and Arthur offered to cook him a birthday cake. It turned out to be a great party, with fabulous food, balloons and streamers. It also turned out to be the very first birthday party that Walter had ever had!

Our days varied from reading to fishing. Phred needed a “deckie” so I went out with him onto the reef when the winds allowed. I caught my first of many squid here and didn’t escape from being squirted all over with black ink! It is hilarious and made even better by going back with a good catch. Also caught lots of “Charlie Court” whose proper name is Rock Cod. Zenny and Carmen took me with them on low tide one day where we wandered over the exposed reef looking for octopus. They use this for bait. Zenny has the most incredible eyes for finding these elusive creatures and it’s not easy getting them out of their holes either!

Water and laundry required a trip into Coral Bay. Water had to be purchased at 10cents per litre. Groceries though were NOT bought in Coral Bay. The prices were so astronomical it was cheaper for a trip of 150kms back to Exmouth. Apples for instance were $1.00 each and Onions 80 cents each!

The three weeks again disappeared quickly into the realms of time and we had to leave to drive the 400kms south to Kalbarri. We stopped one night at Carnarvon, taking advantage of the markets to stock up on great fruit and vegies before driving to Galena Bridge – a roadside stop beside the Murchison river. We spent 2 nights here surrounded in wild flowers. The flowers started well before here though and we had many stops taking umpteen photos! Around Galena, it was a picture of white and yellow predominately although we also found blue and red.

After leaving Galena we turned off the highway and drove in towards Kalbarri through the National Park. It is only 80 kms but it took us a long time with many stops as we kept finding more and more amazing flowers!

We are now resident in Kalbarri for the next 6 months working in the Anchorage Caravan Park. We have the same site as we had when we travelled through here in May. Jack and Julie who found us the work were still here and we worked with them for a week for the change over before they left to resume after nine months, their travels. The work is easy, Walter mowing the grass and watering after vans move off their sites, putting garbage bins out and general maintenance. I am cleaning cabins and a Park Home. The cabins are basic but OK and only take about ½ hour to clean. The Park Home requires a bit more as it has its own ensuites and is serviced with linen. We are both usually finished by lunch time then free to do our own thing. It’s rather nice to have our feet in one spot for a time, particularly such a pretty spot as Kalbarri. I will also probably be taught the booking system and office work to enable me to fill in at the front office when required.

So for the next couple of months the web site may stay the same unless we have other news to impart!

Cheers The Happy Travellers, Rob & Walter