World Heritage Daintree and Wonga Beach

Gosh, it is a hard life for us….after 2 lovely weeks in Cooktown we headed south. First we stayed a night at Rifle Creek, a free camping area at the intersection of the Cook Highway and the road towards Mossman. Our plans were to head the following day through Mossman, across the Daintree River on the ferry and spend a week right up in the Daintree.

Yes we took the van on the ferry, then over the Alexander Range. This is a bitumen road, but quite narrow and very steep and windy! Needless to say Rob had her heart in her mouth the whole way! We had made arrangements to stay about ½ way up towards Cape Tribulation at what is known as Rainforest Village Van Park. We were really happy with our choice of park. All fully grassed sites, all set in such a lovely tropical garden surrounded by the beautiful Daintree National Park. This World Heritage rainforest is really something special. Did you know that it is the oldest rainforest in the world, older than the Amazon? It has many species of what is known as Ancient Trees, direct descendents of the dinosaur days.

We did the usual in picking up many tourist brochures, so spent the first night pouring over them. The other ‘plus’ that we saw is that there is no TV and no telephones, in this remote location. All tourist operations north of the Daintree River run on generators as there is no power. We started off the first day on a Crocodile spotting cruise on Cooper Creek. Not many out, only two in fact but it was pleasant. We headed up to Cape Tribulation and sauntered over the beach. It is lovely but the entire tourist buses call there so there are always plenty of people on the beach. Amazing tides here, well over 3 metres. Bit of a shock when you see the same place at low tide! The sand seems to go on forever.

One of the afternoon trips we did was to an Exotic Tropical Fruit Farm where we got to try 12 different tropical fruits, some of we had never even heard of before. They also showed us how to prepare them and then we strolled through their orchard. One surprise was that Dragon fruit actually grows on a cactus!

There is so much to see in this area that people who just come up for a day trip from Mossman, Port Douglas or Cairns really don’t see very much. We organised to go ‘Jungle Surfing’. This was such fun. It entailed being put into an abseiling harness and you went on like a flying fox over 6 different platforms through the rainforest canopy. On each platform they had an ‘eco’ talk on life existing in this unique area. You also had views of over 45kms over the Great Barrier Reef.

We also undertook a day trip out to the outer reef again. This time a bus picked us up from the caravan park at 8a.m. and took us to the beach at Cape Tribulation. From there a rubber ducky took us out through the waves to the motor cruiser called Odyssey H2O. It was a beautiful day, fine and sunny with no wind. We motored out about 20kms to MacKay Reef. Walter was able to go snorkelling and of course, Rob was again at the bottom of the ocean this time chasing green turtles! Only Rob and one other diver on board so the bottom certainly was not crowded!

We had days just reading and sitting in the sun, of seeing cassowaries just down the road, even one with a chick. These birds are quite aggressive so close photos are just not possible. Another day we went south of the van park and found the Daintree Ice-cream Company. They make home made ice-cream from their tropical fruit orchard. (Remember too, they have no power and kick up their big generator on Mondays to make the weeks supply!) The flavours of the day were Wattle seed (like mocha), passionfruit, mango and coconut. It was so yummy!

Another trip south took us to the Daintree Discovery Centre. This is a private concern but has one heaps of tourism awards. They have sunk millions of dollars into it. There is an aerial walkway above the rainforest floor, then a five floored aerial tower that takes you into each level of the rainforest. You are provided with a great booklet and an audio guide. These guides were so well done, and described the varying levels of the rainforest, the birds, and the butterflies, the animals including the bats as well as descriptions of the trees, vines, flowers and water courses. We often got to spot the gorgeous electric blue Ulysses butterfly but never did see the Cairns Birdwing which is brilliant green and gold. Had to make do with a picture!

Our week came to an end and we headed back over the range and the ferry to a tiny place called Wonga Beach. Now this was paradise. A 5 km beach fringed with coconut palms. The Caravan Park was a Top Tourist and is right on the beach. (Close enough – within 200m) yet you were protected from any wind. It is 5km from Mossman so we did have phones again and internet connection. TV was not too good though. We met some lovely people here who come from Shortland in Newcastle, Alan and Julie. Again from Wonga Beach it was a great place to venture out to other areas. We went up to Daintree Village (this is on the south side of the river) and we went on an Electric boat to see the wildlife on the river. This meant a couple of crocs, a beautiful Azure Kingfisher and a Green Tree Snake. The camouflage on this one was incredible. Black on top and bright yellow underneath. When it lies on the branch you truly have difficulty in seeing him!

We also went up to view Diane Cilento’s Karnak Theatre and coffee shop and met the lady herself. Still a really beautiful woman. She also has a gallery there and displays many pieces of glass from Ola Höglund. This is the most beautiful glass I have ever seen. He originally came from Sweden and ever piece he makes is individually crafted. He blows the glass using the most incredible colours. The pieces are spectacular. When we saw how he made some of the larger bowls you realise that it is not expensive. So painstaking and intricate.

Then on Monday we again upped anchor and headed a little further south to Port Douglas. This is quite a unique place also. So many resorts, big names and expensive properties but the town itself has a lovely feel. So many tourists here though. We will leave here again on Monday and head just a little further south to Ellis Beach. It is just north of Cairns and we will base ourselves there for 4 days. We will check Cairns out from this distance before going onto Bramston Beach where we will meet up with our neighbours from Cobar. After that well we don’t know yet.