World Heritage Daintree and Wonga Beach

Gosh, it is a hard life for us….after 2 lovely weeks in Cooktown we headed south. First we stayed a night at Rifle Creek, a free camping area at the intersection of the Cook Highway and the road towards Mossman. Our plans were to head the following day through Mossman, across the Daintree River on the ferry and spend a week right up in the Daintree.

Yes we took the van on the ferry, then over the Alexander Range. This is a bitumen road, but quite narrow and very steep and windy! Needless to say Rob had her heart in her mouth the whole way! We had made arrangements to stay about ½ way up towards Cape Tribulation at what is known as Rainforest Village Van Park. We were really happy with our choice of park. All fully grassed sites, all set in such a lovely tropical garden surrounded by the beautiful Daintree National Park. This World Heritage rainforest is really something special. Did you know that it is the oldest rainforest in the world, older than the Amazon? It has many species of what is known as Ancient Trees, direct descendents of the dinosaur days.

We did the usual in picking up many tourist brochures, so spent the first night pouring over them. The other ‘plus’ that we saw is that there is no TV and no telephones, in this remote location. All tourist operations north of the Daintree River run on generators as there is no power. We started off the first day on a Crocodile spotting cruise on Cooper Creek. Not many out, only two in fact but it was pleasant. We headed up to Cape Tribulation and sauntered over the beach. It is lovely but the entire tourist buses call there so there are always plenty of people on the beach. Amazing tides here, well over 3 metres. Bit of a shock when you see the same place at low tide! The sand seems to go on forever.

One of the afternoon trips we did was to an Exotic Tropical Fruit Farm where we got to try 12 different tropical fruits, some of we had never even heard of before. They also showed us how to prepare them and then we strolled through their orchard. One surprise was that Dragon fruit actually grows on a cactus!

There is so much to see in this area that people who just come up for a day trip from Mossman, Port Douglas or Cairns really don’t see very much. We organised to go ‘Jungle Surfing’. This was such fun. It entailed being put into an abseiling harness and you went on like a flying fox over 6 different platforms through the rainforest canopy. On each platform they had an ‘eco’ talk on life existing in this unique area. You also had views of over 45kms over the Great Barrier Reef.

We also undertook a day trip out to the outer reef again. This time a bus picked us up from the caravan park at 8a.m. and took us to the beach at Cape Tribulation. From there a rubber ducky took us out through the waves to the motor cruiser called Odyssey H2O. It was a beautiful day, fine and sunny with no wind. We motored out about 20kms to MacKay Reef. Walter was able to go snorkelling and of course, Rob was again at the bottom of the ocean this time chasing green turtles! Only Rob and one other diver on board so the bottom certainly was not crowded!

We had days just reading and sitting in the sun, of seeing cassowaries just down the road, even one with a chick. These birds are quite aggressive so close photos are just not possible. Another day we went south of the van park and found the Daintree Ice-cream Company. They make home made ice-cream from their tropical fruit orchard. (Remember too, they have no power and kick up their big generator on Mondays to make the weeks supply!) The flavours of the day were Wattle seed (like mocha), passionfruit, mango and coconut. It was so yummy!

Another trip south took us to the Daintree Discovery Centre. This is a private concern but has one heaps of tourism awards. They have sunk millions of dollars into it. There is an aerial walkway above the rainforest floor, then a five floored aerial tower that takes you into each level of the rainforest. You are provided with a great booklet and an audio guide. These guides were so well done, and described the varying levels of the rainforest, the birds, and the butterflies, the animals including the bats as well as descriptions of the trees, vines, flowers and water courses. We often got to spot the gorgeous electric blue Ulysses butterfly but never did see the Cairns Birdwing which is brilliant green and gold. Had to make do with a picture!

Our week came to an end and we headed back over the range and the ferry to a tiny place called Wonga Beach. Now this was paradise. A 5 km beach fringed with coconut palms. The Caravan Park was a Top Tourist and is right on the beach. (Close enough – within 200m) yet you were protected from any wind. It is 5km from Mossman so we did have phones again and internet connection. TV was not too good though. We met some lovely people here who come from Shortland in Newcastle, Alan and Julie. Again from Wonga Beach it was a great place to venture out to other areas. We went up to Daintree Village (this is on the south side of the river) and we went on an Electric boat to see the wildlife on the river. This meant a couple of crocs, a beautiful Azure Kingfisher and a Green Tree Snake. The camouflage on this one was incredible. Black on top and bright yellow underneath. When it lies on the branch you truly have difficulty in seeing him!

We also went up to view Diane Cilento’s Karnak Theatre and coffee shop and met the lady herself. Still a really beautiful woman. She also has a gallery there and displays many pieces of glass from Ola Höglund. This is the most beautiful glass I have ever seen. He originally came from Sweden and ever piece he makes is individually crafted. He blows the glass using the most incredible colours. The pieces are spectacular. When we saw how he made some of the larger bowls you realise that it is not expensive. So painstaking and intricate.

Then on Monday we again upped anchor and headed a little further south to Port Douglas. This is quite a unique place also. So many resorts, big names and expensive properties but the town itself has a lovely feel. So many tourists here though. We will leave here again on Monday and head just a little further south to Ellis Beach. It is just north of Cairns and we will base ourselves there for 4 days. We will check Cairns out from this distance before going onto Bramston Beach where we will meet up with our neighbours from Cobar. After that well we don’t know yet.

Nimrod Explorer and Outer Barrier Reef

Saturday 21st July saw us set out on another adventure. This time we were catching the Nimrod Explorer from Cooktown for a 3 nights/ 4 day diving cruise to the outer Barrier Reef. All of the other 13 passengers began their trip from Cairns with a flight to Cooktown where we all boarded the boat at 6 p.m.

Nimrod Explorer is one of the roomiest dive boats anywhere. The vessel is twin hulled for optimum stability and measures 23m x 8m, making the saloon positively spacious. With a maximum 18 guests, we could have held a barn dance out there! There are 2 cabins on the saloon deck - 1 double and 1 twin and on the lower deck there are 4 quad share rooms and a double. All rooms have their own shower and toilet.

We had a quad share room, with both Walter and I bagging the bottom bunks, and a lovely young lass (Kat) who was a dive instructor from Cairns taking one of the top bunks. (She was much more agile than us!) We all gathered in the saloon/dining room once on board and were given a briefing by Captain Phil, Dive Masters Kelly and Dan, and Housekeeper Val and Chef Steph. This gave us a good idea of the procedures to follow for our time on the boat for our safety and the smooth operation of day to day.

It was a mixed group of people, 5 from USA, 2 from Spain on their honeymoon, 1 Japanese lady, an older Australian guy (even older than us!) Kat the dive Instructor (who was British), a Pakistani, and 2 other guys who we think were from South America. Even the staff was international! Cleaner was from Italy, Cook was from Britain, Kelly (dive master) New Zealand, and Dan (Dive Master) from Britain. The Captain and Engineer were actually Australians.

The boat has its’ own desalinator, which can churn out 6000 litres of fresh water per day, this meant we could shower after every dive. The boat has the old nautical charm of wood paneling throughout, but the Nimrod Explorer has fully air-conditioning throughout and has video and CD players. There are also plenty of fish identification books, a lending library, more board games than we had time to play, self-serve brewed coffee, a wide variety of teas and complimentary soft drinks. As if that were not enough to keep us busy, there is a shaded upper deck area with tables and chairs, as well as a sunbathing area.

The first night we left Cooktown about midnight and steamed throughout the night to anchor at first light on Ribbon Reef No.10, on the Challenger Bay. As the wind kept up, it was very “wobbly” as Phil the skipper put it, and I didn’t really get any sleep.

The first dive was at 6.30 am after a light brekky. Visibility was easily a good 25-30 metres. Pretty dive, nice corals, lion fish and a myriad of reef fish. Walter tried snorkeling but it was very windy so the sea very choppy on the surface that made it quite uncomfortable so he aborted the exercise! It was so nice underwater though, my dive lasted for 55 minutes….the joy of tropical waters! The timetable for the day was for 5 dives, including a night dive. The second was at Pixie Wall, again lovely with schools of barracuda, grey whaler shark, Trevally and thousands of highly coloured reef fish of all varieties. I even got to see some varieties that are particularly hard to spot, due to their ability to camouflage, such as the Leafy Scorpion fish. I had my new underwater camera so I had to start all over again working out its settings etc! The next dive was at Pixie Gardens. This is a very pretty area with Lion Fish, Anemone Fish, Christmas Tree worms and lovely coral of all shapes and types.

There were 2 other dives this day, the Monolith and a night dive but I was so tired after the third dive I opted out. Needless to say I slept like a top that night making up for the night before!

At 5.30 am we began steaming to the next site about 1 ½ hours away to the Cod Hole. When we arrived at the Cod Hole, the current was too strong for diving so we changed to Cormorant Reef. This was another amazing dive site, lots of fish, white tipped reef shark and Leafy Scorpion Fish. After completing this dive and having a lovely hot breakfast, we steamed back to the Cod Hole.

The Cod Hole, for me, was the pinnacle of the trip. I have read about the Cod Hole for years. The Cod Hole is known for its’ resident family of huge potato cod which enjoy protected status in the area, and have made this small section of the reef their home. They range in size from 25 to 60 kg (50 to 120 pounds). The diving depth at the Cod Hole varies from 10 to 20 metres on a sloping bottom that is dotted with high profile coral heads and stunning coral gardens.

Weather permitting, two dives are done at the Cod Hole on every 3 ½ day trip, including an in-your-face potato cod feed. Not only great fun for the divers, the feed encourages the potato cods to stay at the Cod Hole where there is an absolute ban on fishing. Unlike some dive boats, the crew of the Nimrod Explorer urges divers not to touch the impossibly cute potato cods so that we do not wipe off their protective mucous coating and expose them to possible infections. The feed was amazing and made for some fantastic photography! They are so cheeky! You really have to get out of their way! They have no trouble about getting up close and personal with you!

Following this dive, we motored back 1 ½ hours to Pixie Pinnacle for the next dive after lunch. This is a pinnacle rising to within 2 feet of the surface. You begin diving at the bottom, about 24 metres and spiral around the pinnacle. It is fascinating to see the changes in sea life as you go up. Very pretty, with Gorgonian fans and some pretty soft corals on this too. Also found some lovely Nudibranchs (see photo). After afternoon tea, we then did a dusk dive on the same pinnacle, different again as you see the ‘day’ fish and creatures going to bed and the ‘night life’ come out to play! The feather stars are beautiful at night as they extended their tentacles to feed, the red bass go hunting – they love the lights from the dive boat, and there are also the lobsters that are prowling around the reef. The parrot fish, they wrap themselves up in their cocoon to protect themselves from predators whilst they sleep. All so fascinating, and such a beautiful world.

Again we began steaming south straight after dinner towards Steve’s Bommie. About a 5 hour motor. There was a dawn dive (5.30 am) but I opted out! I had breakfast then did the next dive. This is another pinnacle named after a guy called Steve who died free diving at the Cod Hole in 1989. There is a plaque set on the bottom of the Bommie in his memory. Again you spiral around, going from the bottom to the top. The top of this Bommie is only 5 feet from the surface and I have never seen anything quite as pretty.. Real Nemo’s live here among a huge variety of corals, and fairy basslet reef fish in all colours of the rainbow.

Walter did not get to undertake any further snorkelling but he ate well and read books!

Then it was back to Cooktown. When we arrived back we were all served Champagne and nibbles on the back deck before we all departed. It was a great trip but we weren’t lucky enough to spot any of the dwarf Minke whales. Think it was a bit late in the season for them. We may have to do this trip again a bit early another time!

From Walkamin to Cooktown

Well here is the next episode of our travels!

We ended up spending 5 weeks at Walkamin on the Atherton Tablelands. A beautiful place with so much to see and do. We saw waterfalls, volcanic craters, coffee plantations, markets where we picked up the best pineapples and fresh passionfruit, went flying in a Chinese trainer plane and did acrobatics, went to Kuranda and travelled on both the Scenic Railway and the Skyrail. We saw the most marvelous scenery, so green and pretty, with creeks full of clear running water and waterfalls everywhere. A bit of a change from Cobar!

We left the caravan there in storage for 12 days and went and did the most fantastic trip to Cape York including Thursday and Horn Island. (See previous chapter!)

We left Walkamin last Sunday and are now at Cooktown. It is a totally unspoilt, scenic, sleepy little village. Can't swim though because there’s lots of those "stumpy legged swamp dogs"!!!

When we went on the Cape York trip, because of the rain, we weren’t able to undertake the Bloomfield track because the track is very steep in some places on a clay base. On Monday, whilst lunching on fresh grilled barramundi and salad, Dot & Len Hutton, the 2 tour guides for the cape trip, arrived in with the next Tag a Long tour. Len offered us the option of jumping on the end of the tour the next day to drive the Bloomfield Track . Needless to say, we jumped at the chance. This is a 4WD track that runs down through Cedar Bay National Park into the Daintree to Cape Tribulation and southward. So we joined the tour at 8 am Tuesday and went back down through Black Mountain, Little Annan River Gorge and onto the Lions Den Hotel, Weary Bay and Bloomfield Falls. This is the point where it became new territory. We crossed the Bloomfield river and up the mountain into the rainforest. We crossed gorgeous clear creeks amongst dense rainforest, filled with orchids, tree ferns, staghorns and elks. Mangroves grew prolifically along the creeks, lots of kingfishers and honeyeaters. The road then parallels the coast, and the rainforest meets the sea. The views are spectacular. We walked onto the beach where James Cook played cricket with his crew (the poms won!). The beach is totally unspoilt and we were the only people on it.

We decided not to call in at Cape Tribulation as it appeared that thousands were there. We decided we would call back here from the Daintree end. We went down as far as what is known as the Dujabli Boardwalk. This is a boardwalk through the Daintree of about 1200 metres. The fan palms, mangroves, rattan palms, pandanus and so many other plants and trees. There is more species here in 1 hectare in the Daintree than there is in the whole of the USA! We left the tag a long tour here, thanking them for letting us join in and we drove back to Cooktown the way we came, along the Bloomfield track again. This time on the way home we stopped at a lookout over the Bloomfield river. We were so excited as we looked down on the river over a large sweeping bend and on that sandbank was the biggest crocodile! He was a good 5 metres long and huge! I was glad that we were high above the river! We arrived back in Cooktown at 5 pm after a wonderful day.


Yesterday we, with 2 other travelling caravanning friends, Roger & Jenny, caught a tour called "Catch a Crab Tour". It was a 6 metre boat and we all left the wharf at 8 am. (Boy that's early for us these days). We travelled up the Endeavour River, first checking all the crab pots he had put in the night before. Anything legal size was ours to keep. Lots in each one but only two were true legal size, so many of the others only 5ml TOO SMALL! But we had 2 lovely big mud crabs for tea last night after I cooked them!

We also went croc spotting (stumpy legged swamp dogs) and saw 2 huge ones. One was sunning himself on the bank and the other in the water. The one on the bank scared the livin' daylights out of us when he launched himself off the bank, over the boat into the river! We threw a line in but I caught the only fish, a small brim, which we sent back to his mother! We travelled 15 miles up river and into the rainforest. So very beautiful and prehistoric. Made you feel that you were the only one to have ever gone there.

Tomorrow we are catching the Nimrod Explorer at 5 pm for a 3 night/4 day Outer Reef diving trip. (Walter will sit on the deck and read whilst I talk to the fishies! He may do some snorkeling if his hip is OK). We will give you a whole chapter on this adventure next week when we return!

Today we drove out to Finch Bay with our lunch and sheltered behind some rocks out of the wind and sand. It is totally unspoilt and it is just the way James Cook would have seen it when he put his ship, “The Endeavour” in here for repairs all those years ago.
Check out the tide though, there is a 3 metre difference here!

We plan to leave here on the 28th at this stage and head to Mossman, Daintree, Wonga Beach and Port Douglas, beginning our trip down the coast. It is warm here but very windy. This is usual here apparently, even Cook’s Diary mentioned the strong SE prevailing winds!

Til next time, the Happy Travellers

Rob & Walter

Adventure Before Dementia: Cape York 4WD Adventure

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