Cape York 4WD Adventure

At last our trip to Cape York with Guides to Adventure from Atherton began to be a reality with first a briefing on Thursday 14th June. We were also issued with our “Dilly Bag” containing our plates and cutlery and a bag of fruit for the morning fruit stops. We met our guides, Dot & Len Hutton and had all our many questions answered. There were five other couples also about to set out on this adventure to Cape York.

As we were staying at Walkamin they arranged to pick us up on the way as the route took them right passed the caravan park. We all had UHF so we joined the convoy and headed towards Mareeba. One other couple, Vic and Norma met us there as they had been staying in Cairns. First stop was just out of Mareeba at Bruno Manobertoli’s Coffee Plantation. He and his wife and daughter run this and it was the very first coffee plantation in the area. Bruno and “Mama” are both is their 80’s and are very much “hands on” Mama even has the oldest Singer sewing machine there and makes all the Hessian bags for the coffee. Bruno has a 100year old roaster that he bought out from Italy that is still used to roast the coffee. The coffee “cherries” here are laid out in the sun to dry and they use their feet by shuffling through them to turn them!

One of the things we quickly learnt on this trip was the incredible knowledge base that Len and Dot have. This led to lots of “Show & Tells” along the road each day. One of the first of these was a plaque by the side of the road marking one of the camps of Kennedy and his group (an early explorer). We travelled onto Chillagoe through the tablelands of coffee, sugar cane and mango plantations.

At Chillagoe we stopped for lunch before heading out to our Chillagoe cave tour. A Ranger met us and guided us through one of the caves. Beautiful formations and some close encounters with both bentwing and horseshoe bats. Also some lovely huntsmen spiders whose eyes glow like diamonds in the torchlight.

Back on the road and then the rain came! And boy did it some down…..the car did not stay clean for long! After about 35 kms the road was dry and the rain ceased. Our first night out was to camp on the banks of the Mitchell River. Len and Dot had been telling us our lovely this campsite was. However when we got there it had changed completely. The wet season had flooded the river and the normally pretty grassy site had been covered with a foot of sand! We all managed to drive in and find a spot but some had trouble with anchoring their pegs in such soft stuff. We were lucky as we had some sand pegs with us.

Dot (cookie) provided us with a lovely camp oven meal and dessert before we tucked ourselves off to bed in the tent. It rained again during the night so we had a wet and sandy tent to pack up next day but that’s camping! My turn to drive so I was behind the wheel for the next days driving and this involved quite a few creek crossings. Whoever was last got to open and shut the gates (and it wasn’t us this day) and there must have been about 20 gates! We passed through the gold rush area of Palmerville (1880’s) before arriving at Hann River Roadhouse where we spent the second night. They had showers and toilets here – quite civilized! When bush camping though, Len erects a bush toilet and shower if we want it. The shower only went up one night on the whole trip as there were lots of beautiful creeks to swim in. He put the shower up the night that the creek where we were camped at was also the home of some File Snakes!

There are Road trains on this track and when they are approaching you have to pull right off the track. The dust they kick up is incredible and you cannot see a thing for 5 mintues after they pass!

From Hann we traveled to Moreton Telegraph Station on the Wenlock River. Again lots of stops for show and tells and each night we also had a firewood stop to collect wood for the cooking fire. Scenery just kept changing from plains to Open Savannah and then pockets of rainforest. The bird life was also so diverse, Blue Wing Kookaburras, black cockatoo’s, water birds and cranes of all varieties, dingoes, emus, agile rock wallabies, Tawny Frogmouth owls and it goes on and on. Flood level indicators at Moreton blew us away. The 1953 flood was above my head and the camp site itself was 20 metres above the current river level! That is one huge lot of water…

We joined the Old Telegraph track the next day and some amazing creek crossings. We all had to walk the river with Len first to work out the track we were going to take through the stream and to find out how deep it was running. The wet season ensures that no creek stays the same! We all decided to bypass the Gunshot Creek crossing (by its reputation for breaking many vehicles) but come back on the other side to have a look at it. When we did this we found we all could have negotiated it quite easily as Telstra had put a D9 through it! But note the photo of the old approach!

We camped again in the rain at Dulhunty Falls. Getting there though was slow for us as we had the misfortune to have a sharp piece of mulga pierce the side wall of the front left tyre. The group was great though and assisted us to change the tyre and get back on the road. We had a lovely swim in the creek whilst Dot was preparing dinner and then again down came the rain. Dot was saturated but still managed to serve us another incredible meal. Even the most amazing damper and golden syrup.

Next day we were headed for Seisia but stopped for a swim at Fruit Bat Falls. These are the prettiest Falls and such great swimming. To get to Seisia though you first have to cross the Jardine River. This is a large, fast flowing river full of crocodiles. The local aboriginal group now runs the ferry and it is a massive $88 for a 70 second trip! (Thank god it is a return price!!!!) But if you want to get to the top you just have to pay the fee!

Through Bamaga to Seisia and suddenly you feel in another part of the world. Seisia is an islander village and lovely place. We stayed in the caravan park there for 2 nights. Next day we had to be at the wharf by 8 a.m. for catch the ferry to Thursday Island. It is an hour’s trip over to T.I. and it was actually fine and sunny! T.I. is gorgeous, I could live there. We had 1 ½ hour bus trip of the island which is only 2miles X 4miles long. Amazing history, particularly of pearl diving and WWII. Then we were dropped back on the wharf and caught the next ferry to Horn Island. Lunch was provided here before another bus trip. This trip was very interesting, plane wrecks and airfields that were important to the defense of Australia in WW11. After ferrying back to T.I. then to Seisia we all took our chairs down to the beach to watch the sunset. What happened? It rained again so we had to pick up our chairs and run like rabbits for shelter!

Next day was a very early start to drive out to Cape York. We wanted to be there before the other 1,000 tourists! From the car park it is an 800 metre walk but what a thrill when we were finally standing at the very tip! And to top it off, Dot & Len provided Champagne and fruit cake!

This night’s camp site was Elliot Falls. This is National Park’s camp site but right at both Elliot and Twin Falls. Very pretty and good swimming again in crystal clear water.

The road next day was through Batavia Downs and only 2 creek crossings heading towards Weipa. We camped at Weipa Caravan Park right on the beach (croc territory again though – no swimming). Beautiful sunset here over the Gulf. After a late start next day as the bus for the tour broke down, they found a smaller bus and we toured the town and Weipa Bauxite Mine. Very interesting. We had lunch beside one of the eight lakes there and then headed out on the road towards Coen. This night we camped about 5 kms outside of Coen on Coen Bend. Very pretty river. Len filled up his water containers and found 2 File snakes in the creek. There are only 2 varieties of File snakes in Australia (both non venomous) and this one was the Arafura File snake. It did put people of swimming here though! Len put the shower up this night!!

The next day we were supposed to head toward Lakefield National Park but we found out that they had had so much rain that the road had been washed away. This meant a diversion for us down to Musgrave, then to Laura and Old Laura to enter Lakefield from the bottom end. We headed up the track for 75kms to the Red Lily Lagoon. These are amazing. This is the only place in the world where these red lotus lilies grow. After viewing the lilies we travelled back down the track to Kalpower and camped the night here. This is on the banks of the Normanby River and most definitely CROC TERRITORY. We were quite safe where we were camped but after tea we went “croc hunting” with torches. We went down to the crossing and shone torches up the sides of the river and we spotted 3 sets of glowing red eyes! The sign of the snappys!

From here we negotiated a few more creek crossings and headed into Cooktown. After setting up the tent we all headed into town for a lovely feed of fresh grilled barramundi and salad on the waterfront. Walter and I didn’t worry about running around to try and see everything as we are heading to Cooktown with the van for 2 weeks so we will be able to take our time then and see everything.

Each night during Happy Hour, a fine session was run with Tail End Charlie being the Fine Master for the day. All money raised is going to the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Len also runs asession on the last night in Cooktown and also an Auction. We all are considerably broker and we will be interested in finding out just how much we raised!

Our trip the next day was to head down what is called the Bloomfield track through Cape Tribulation on our way home. Again though, so much rain found part of the Bloomfield track closed. We drove down to Weary Bay, the Lions Den Hotel and Bloomfield Falls before back tracking on to the main highway and home. We hope that whilst we are either in Cooktown or in the Daintree we might be able to go back and do this part of the track as a day trip. It apparently is one of the most beautiful scenic drives although the track is 3:1 in places on a red clay base. Hence why it was closed.

Back in Walkamin now and have spent three days washing and cleaning everything up. Wouldn’t you know it, the weather now is gorgeous. Another couple here in the caravan park came to us yesterday as they are leaving on the same trip with Len and Dot next week and wanted to pick our brains. I bet they have lovely weather!

We still think it has been one of the best value for money trips we have ever done and we have seen parts of Australia we certainly couldn’t have on our own.

Til next time,
The Intrepid Travellers, Rob & Walter

Atherton Tablelands

Well we are here in Atherton and we totally love this place. So green, lovely hills and running clear streams and lots of waterfalls. The history here is also again amazing, particularly it’s Chinese heritage. We stayed 4 days at the Woodlands (Big 4) Caravan Park) in its rainforest setting. Such lovely birds and landscape of palms, bamboo and beautiful flowers.

We caught up on our banking, emails, post and grocery shopping before we made our plan of “attack”. We went to the Information Centre and picked up our usual array of brochures on what is to see in the local area. Let me tell you there is so much to see and do!

It was drizzling rain when we arrived and did so for the whole 4 days. We were not going to complain as it apparently has been raining for 3 weeks before we got here! This was the first rain that we had come in contact with.

We started out on driving out to the Curtain Fig tree, reputed to be over 800 years old. It is in a lovely rainforest and it truly was a majestic sight. From there we drove through the lovely quaint township of Yungaburra, close to Lake Tingaroo. Full of quaint little coffee shops, antique dealers, craft shops and bakeries and butchery’s all professing to supply homemade fare. (We resisted!) We went on to Lake Barine.


What a gorgeous place this! This and Lake Eacham are both crater lakes formed many thousands of years ago. It is not developed except for a little teahouse that was built in the 1920’s. They also run Rainforest cruises around the perimeter of the lake which is only 3.5kms. You get a chance to see many birds and native wildlife up close without getting off the boat! We were so lucky as we were able to spot and photograph 3 very large amethyst pythons really up close. Plenty of water birds as well as rainbow lorikeets, and the amazing coloured Blue Ulysses butterfly. (Little devils would not pose for a photo shoot though!) I have tried to catch them on the video but will see how they come out! It began raining again at the end of the cruise but it was still nice and warm. We called into also look at Lake Eacham which is smaller but a lovely swimming spot. Water is so clear we were counting the fish!

We drove on the long distance of 8kms to Malanda, another tiny village and stopped at the falls. Really misting rain but we took some photos and walked through the rainforest. Check out the beautiful fungi growing.

The following day we visited the Chinese museum and Hou Wang Temple. This is a very unique temple, the only one in Australia of tin and timber construction built in the late 1800’s for the large Chinese community. The Chinese came here in their hundreds for the Palmer goldfields gold rush but were basically hounded off much of the land when the gold petered out. Being the industrial race they are they commenced maize growing as well as market gardening, supplying the district with their produce.

At the same venue in the morning was a wild bird show and it went for 1 ½ hours and really was worth seeing. I have never been this close to a Wedge tail eagle, a Spotted Quoll, 2 lovely owls, a barn owl and a Sooty Owl and a Brown Falcon. Very educational too.

As part of the requirements of the 4WD trip that we leave on next week, we had to get the car fully checked out by one of their authorized workshops. We had that completed with no problems found and now have our Certificate of Inspection!

Today we drove the 15kms to Walkamin, a small village 15kms towards Mareeba. It’s a lovely open park, plenty of room, oranges and mandarins hanging off the trees and we have been told to take what we like as they will fall off and rot otherwise! It’s a clean up day tomorrow, and we will start sorting out what clothes we need to take and start packing. As everything on the trip is supplied except tent and sleeping gear, including plates, knives, forks etc we will unpack the roof rack and a lot of the gear in the car and leave it here with the van. They are only charging us $2.00 per night to leave the van here whilst we are “roughing” it.

Oh this lifestyle really is the pits! They have a campfire here and great barbeque facilities so we are cooking over there tonight. Apparently there is also a darts and Bocci comp which we have been challenged to enter!

Oh the things we have to do……
Love to you all

Rob & Walter

Clermont to Atherton

Continuing from last episode…..

Theresa Creek dam was a beautiful spot. Lots of caravans and motor homes camped out there too! We just took a picnic lunch out and sat in our chairs not far from the dam watching motor boats, skiers, and fishermen coming and going. One of the later came in with a huge barramundi! Now we know we are in the right area!!!

After having the springs fixed on the caravan, we then headed off towards Charters Towers. We gave Belyando Crossing a miss except for stopping for a hamburger for lunch….and boy were they great hamburgers! The van park we stayed in at Charters was a Top Tourist park and we had a nice site under the trees. Lovely shade but made the van very dark most of the time. Charters is a fascinating place, and so much history based around gold. Did you know they have one of the only regional stock exchanges in Australia at one time? The building is truly magnificent and has other uses now such as gift shops, coffee shops etc. See the photo! We visited the “Venus” Battery which was a community battery for the miners. The Battery could do up to 7 different consignments at any one time. It has been kept virtually intact and has a fascinating holographic presentation that brings back the original owner and designer of it! Very clever. So much gold came out of this area. One load of 2586 tons yielded over 7000 grams of gold, equal today of about 3.2 million dollars. Not a bad day’s takings eh!

We also drove out to Burdekin dam for a look around and picnic lunch, very pretty place. Full also of barramundi we were told.

Lovely historic buildings in the town such as what was a very elite “Gentlemen Only” club, The World Theatre, Bank of NSW, hospital and ambulance station. All lovely ornate buildings and would have been so ahead of their time 100 years ago. We went up to the Towers lookout for the “Ghosts of Gold” presentation and also found a lovely group of Allied Rock Wallabies. Double whammy!

Whilst at Charters we heard about a place called Fletchers Creek, about 38kms north on the Gregory Developmental road which was the way we were heading anyway. So we thought we would check it out. If it was OK we would stop overnight if not keep going towards Greenvale. Well it was the most delightful spot right on a crystal clear running creek. There were caravans, tents and motor homes camped along it on both sides of the road. Just as we arrived a couple were leaving so gave us there spot. 5 metres from the creek, stacks of bird life and total tranquility! So we ended up staying 2 nights. Had the egrets, kookaburras, eagles and honey eaters all around us. We were quite sad to leave actually but leave we did and drove straight through to Undara Lava Tubes.

This is a lovely bush setting but not really cheap! We booked in for a ½ day tour of the Lava tubes the following day and a Sunset tour for the following evening. There are also walks you can undertake yourself so we grabbed the info on all of these to sit down and work out what we wanted to do. Again heaps of birds around and eastern gray kangaroos and some wallabies. They also have free campfire entertainment each night so we availed ourselves of this treat as well. The first night a ranger gave a talk on Toxic plants and animals. Quite interesting. The next night another ranger bought out his guitar and entertained us.

The lava tubes were amazing. This is the only one in the world of this magnitude, some of them running for 160 kms. Formed some 190,000 years ago through volcanic activity. Something like 164 volcanoes in the area but most of the tubes were formed from the Undara volcano that oozed its lava slowly down its sides filling up the lower lying areas. Although the surface cooled, the lava underneath continues to flow and when the eruption stopped the lava gradually flowed out of the tubes leaving hollow tunnels beneath the ground.

One evening on returning to the van Walter spotted something that at first glance neither of us knew what it was. But after looking up our trusty mammal identification book we found we had 2 Rufus bettongs outside our door. The cutest little things with pink noses and tiny pink pointed ears.

From Undara we traveled about 90kms to a tiny place known as Innot Hot Springs. Again sitting on the artesian basin the van park has 6 artesian pools all differing temperatures. The hottest being 45-48 degrees C. We found we definitely needed to jump into the “cool” pool after this one!

Last night we went into the only other place in town, the pub of course, for dinner. But what an amazing experience that this turned out to be! Who should be running this pub, was a guy called Larry McLean. Larry (those Muswellbrook folk may remember) was the half of the “Larry & Flav” team who ran Blackhill restaurant! Larry employed me there as a waitress (2nd job) when I first came to Muswellbrook 33 years ago. Neither of us could get over it, we were both so surprised! We agreed to both take a lottery ticket and call it Déjà vu! Needless to say we had a great night there and great dinner too.

We are now in Atherton. What a beautiful area that is. As soon as we climbed out of the valley the vegetation went Bright green! Truly rainforest even had purple swamp hens and Brush turkeys on the road instead of crows and apostle birds! Looking to explore the area over the next few days. We are here for 4 days before heading the 15kms to WAlkamin where we stay for a week and then store the van there whilst we head to Cape York on our 12 day 4WD tour. Should be truly great.

Hope all are well,

Love to you all the Happy Travellers
Rob & Walter